It hasn’t been too long since I’ve written on this thing, and I like to space things out so that I can really lean in to my long-winded style of writing that helps to weed out the readers with short attention spans. Today, however, there is not much else to do considering that the internet/phone networks in Chad are currently blocked due to political conflict, which needs to be done in secret without unhelpful social media posts from those who don’t agree with the current regime. Naturally, easiest thing is just to make sure that no one can talk to anyone who is not right next to them to avoid anyone discussing topics that the Marshal of Chad would prefer to remain undiscussed. This seems like a great idea in theory, but it ignores the fact that phone technology is still relatively new, word of mouth has been working well for for thousands of years, and people already know exactly what is going on (I’ve been told by several different unrelated people), and cutting off our access to communication is not stopping the discussion, but merely making it impossible for normal work to continue. This is the world that we live in where internet and phone communication actually IS a necessity for life. I know I’ve mentioned before that more people have cell phones that toilets, and this is a great shocking statistic that is 100% true, but if I had to choose between a working phone connected to the internet and a toilet, I’d probably go for the phone too. There are plenty of bushes around here anyway. Still, I would like to reiterate that both are important and I’m working really hard with local partners in Chad and other parts of Africa where we have projects to make sure that people have access to clean water and toilets at the household level, both of which are necessary to combat water borne diseases.
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| A classic photo where everyone except the government official we were visiting was smiling. |
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| How cute are Moussa's grandkids? I can't handle it. |
Anyway, back to MY LIFE, the arrogant subject of this self-aggrandizing blog, since Emelie’s dot (note: it is NOT in fact spelt ‘dôte’ though that looks way cooler and even makes a vague amount of phonetic sense), I’ve had visitors (auditors and IAS head office people) and made a few trips to Dourbali to see Moussa.
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| Fixed my turn signal with a pocket knife! Also Danem helped because he HATES seeing me work on the car. He told me my brake fluid was empty so he refilled it for me. Now my AC isn't working so I wonder--did he refill the wrong thing with the wrong thing? I will never know because I don't know about brake fluid, just changing the turn signal fuse. |
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| My beautiful birthday cake grâce à the Morrison family: David baked it, Lucy decorated it, and Sophie let them. |
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| Another one of Moussa's adorable grandkids. So snuggly. |
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| Some of my lovely sisters. |
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| The mayor in the Dourbali office. |
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| Pro tip: if you have a day that is usually hard because it brings up some painful memories, go somewhere you can see great things that the Lord is doing-- here the chief of the village is hugging Moussa with all his might because we are drilling there. |
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| Chief Adam Tom thanks God for water coming to his village. And you guys pray because we keep having machine breakdowns and it's a tricky place to drill. |
Prepping the house for the auditors was fun. We’d already de-ratted the place as mentioned in a previous post. And now we needed to deck everything out to prepare for visitors, buying new sheets and stocking up the fridge with breakfast foods. I left the purchasing of items to my colleagues, who have already noted that when I shop things are automatically more expensive and it really annoys them. When they got back with the bed sheets, I scurried around with them, sheeting up the beds that I moved into the house while they were out at the market. The first sets of sheets were pretty generic—hearts and stripes and such. But there was one stand-out set that I really appreciated. A green and white set with GUCCI written in all caps across the top and giant flies (yes, the insect, you read that correctly) decorating the bottom of the sheets and the top of the pillowcase. I’ve thought a lot about the designer of these sheets—probably more than I have thought about other more life-changing things, but I am really curious as to how this set of GUCCI Fly sheets ended up on the market. Maybe there was a computer program that randomly pairs fashionable name brands with an animal to create a decorative pattern, in which case we could have just as easily ended up with PRADA Chickens or CHANEL Manatees. Maybe someone was trying to make a play on words using turn of the century slang like “Gucci is so fly so let’s make Gucci fly sheets!” Or maybe I’m just so out of the fashion loop here in Chad that I haven’t realized that flies and Gucci are the hippest thing out there, while I’m still over here remembering those butterfly hair clips every girl but me used to know how to clip in successfully. I don’t think it’s an environmental thing like how we are supposed to be saving the honeybees. I’m all for that, but there are plenty of flies here in Chad, spreading those water borne diseases we were just talking about so I’m not yet ready to elevate their status to campaign for their salvation. Anyway, here are the photos so feel free to join in the speculation or advocate for your own haute couture-animal combo of choice. Send it to China and maybe it will be made and then exported to Chad, and my colleagues will buy it for our guesthouse.
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| So fashion! |
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| The stuff of actual nightmares: a giant fly crawling out of your pillowcase!!!! |
The other really excellent purchase that my friends made for breakfast was definitely in an effort to please me. I’m currently very worked up about the fact that I saw online somewhere that the unemployment rate in Chad is 90%. That means only 10% of people have a job. I’ll allow for 10% of people have a job that gives them a contract, meaning people with small businesses and doing odd jobs like gardening or house keeping would not be in that employed 10% even though they have income. I’ll spare you my rant about the French educational system that has been badly implemented here and the lack of investment due to corruption and bad infrastructure, but I have somehow made it known within my circle of friends and acquaintances here that I like to support local entrepreneurs and buy locally made Chadian products, including a loose leaf spiced tea, dried mangoes, chili oil, shea butter soap, etc. The guy who brought me the breakfast stuff purchased on my behalf proudly pulled out a jar of jam—“It was made locally here in Chad, so we knew you would definitely want this!” So what do you think—tomato jam anyone? It’s made of tomatoes, sugar, and honey, according to the ingredients list.
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| Bon appétit! |
Besides providing my guests with all the comforts of home, name brand sheets with flies on them and tomato preserves, I also visited Nadji’s garden last weekend. Nadji said, “It’s not far, just a bit past Douguia,” which is already about 80km away. Turns out it was another 50+km from Douguia, making one leg of the journey 130ish km. And I was driving. But why not—short weekend road trip! So I said yes and Nadji and his son Teodore showed up on my doorstep at 7am, as planned. I, naturally, was not yet ready, having not been able to convince myself to get out of bed before 6:30 on a Saturday. But just after 7, I was outside and I heard some puppy cries. I mentioned it to Nadji who said, “Yeah, there’s a puppy in the box in the back of your truck. We are taking it with us to the garden to stay with the guard and his wife there.” Obviously, I was not ok with a puppy in a box and I needed to see the puppy. I pulled her out (female) and she was covered in dirt and ticks, so Abiner (who had been there to play with Joe and Pika) helped me wash her while I ran around putting drinking water in the truck and getting some food and water for the puppy. After the puppy was cleaned, de-ticked by me (I’m a professional now) and wrapped in a towel inside of the cabin of our truck, we set out, still early enough to beat the political protests that were supposed to start on the other side of town.
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| Puppy! |
The trip started out normally enough with me passing all the slow cars and muttering swear words at them all under my breath while also dodging potholes deep enough to swim in. We made it to the turn off for Douguia, and on that more remote road, we were frequently flagged down by people in search of a ride. I decided since this was personal business and not official, I could pick up any hitchhikers I wanted to pick up, and I do like being the strange nasara that pulls up and says, “Howdy traveler, going my way? Hop in!” It does make a sensation. I saw a group of ladies dressed up in the same cloth pattern, and we knew they were “Les Femmes de Charité” a women’s group from one of the large evangelical denominations here. They were on their way to a meeting in Dandi, and we were heading the same direction. I pulled over to let them in, and took advantage of the break from driving to cuddle the little puppy. A couple of the older ladies got in the cabin with us. Covid rules note that not more than 4 people are allowed in the cabin of a truck at one time because presumably one more person in the 5-seater cabins would mean automatic infection, but if you have one seat free, you’re fine. But we were far enough away from anyone who knew those rules, so we crammed in.
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| This is Baraka, whose parents work with Moussa. Somehow he has acquired a plastic dinosaur, which his family thinks is a weird foreign toad. I tried to explain dinosaurs, but I'm not sure it translated. |
One of the hitchhiking ladies saw me with the puppy and said, “Oooh! A puppy!” in exactly the right voice you say those words with. She held out her hands to take her from me, like most ladies in church do with babies. Note: Chadian people, women and men, do not tend to be affectionate towards animals and it’s a rare person who does not throw something at a dog, let alone take a moment to pet one. This lady cuddled the puppy all the way to Dandi, petting her and singing “bishi, bishi, bishi” (Ngambaye for dog) over and over to her. I loved her.
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| Gazing in adoration at the little puppy. |
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| Me and the hitchhikers (note: many more in the back of the truck) |
Before you start thinking that these femmes de charité were actually a group of serial killers preying on nasaras and their puppies, Nadji knew several of these ladies and of course a bunch of them knew Moussa too. “Is he still in Dourbali?” Yes, he is. But I admit that once you pick up one group of hitchhikers, you get in the habit of it, and I picked up many more on the way back too. And then trying to prove that I wasn’t biased towards southerners (after picking up two groups of southerners), I accepted a couple of Arab men and an Arab woman with her baby. The men rode in the back of the pickup (probably not illegal here). And all of them wanted to go all the way to N’djamena, so I had to drive more carefully on the way back because I didn’t want to flip the truck with a bunch of passengers in it. It was a good exercise in caution for me and also a reminder about why we do not pick up hitchhikers—it’s easier to drive crazy if everyone is INSIDE the car. I don’t know why I didn’t think of that before.
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| Chili peppers not from Nadji's garden |
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| But I had to try one |
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| Yeah. No regrets, but there was a little bit of pain... |
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| Ngassi who is growing the chili peppers |
The visit to Nadji’s garden was short and sweet. We were pretty close to the Lake, so nearing Boko Haram territory, but Nadji said we were fine. He has a nice little plot of land, and it was a lovely sunny day with a breeze and so quiet out there. The puppy, who Nadji has named “Patience” for unknown reasons, immediately began to run around and sniff her new home. The neighbor’s dog came over, and he is one of the sweetest Chadian dogs I’ve ever met—friendly to all, loved his new puppy friend—it’s going to be a good life for those guys.
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| Puppy and her friend! |
And I’m back in the capital, just in time for some political excitement, which has taken both my electricity and my internet. Will it come back on? We are unsure when. Until then, this will not be posted. And maybe when/if we get it back, it will all be boring old news, but I don’t have anything else to do for now, so I wrote it down anyway.
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| A photo that was taken by Abiner for unknown reasons. There's a learning curve for figuring out how to use my phone. I've got lots of photos of my hand shifting, some photos of the AC vents, and a few of the mirrors. Thought I'd share for your gratification. |
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| I love piles of shoes in front of a doorway. Always feels like home for me. |
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| Kids getting ready to go to school with little bro photobombing in the background. The girls were mad at him yelling, "You can't be in the photo without your uniform!" |
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| Favor and little Fatima. Favor has a beautiful singing voice. |
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| Yes, me and Portrait Mode did take this amazing photo. |
